Some helpful and random tips if you’re considering getting/building/buying a yurt.
Heat
Probably the biggest question I get asked - how do you keep warm? I put in radiant heating in the floor which is just an 1 1/2″ lightweight pour to set the tubing on top of my post/beam foundation. It’s a nice slow and even heat - but it doesn’t cut it when it’s 20 below and windy (see Windows). I have a pellet stove for fast & hot heat. I went with the pellet stove because I don’t want to have to get up in the middle of the night to add logs to a fire and the pellet stoves are much safer. It works great and mine even runs on a thermostat so I have it nice and toasty when I get home from work.
Insulation
I got the insulated package, but was worried it would be inadequate (true). I decided to add a thin (3/8″) foil backed rigid foam insulation to the outside prior to the outer layer of canvas, scored to fit the radius. This was a bad idea and big waste of time - it might add a little, but likely just makes the canvas less air-tight. Best to add the insulation on the inside between the studs. Oh, and the foil stuff is against code as it’s a fire hazard.
[Update Feb 2009] Just got finished adding Bonded Logic cotton insulation between the studs on the inside of both yurts. This made a huge difference. The insulation is safe, recycled and has a class A fire rating. Yes it’s more expensive, but I really didn’t want fiberglass. I’ve covered it with wall panels to finish off the look and sealed over the windows with the heat-shrink plastic and that cut way back on the draftiness.
Time to Build
If you have the snow & wind kit, allow for double the time (for what the manufacturers suggest) to put the yurt up. A full day for small yurts, two full days for large yurts.
Windows
Be wary of windows - they are the largest source of heat loss especially if you live in a windy area. No matter how good they say their super duper velcro is. The outer flaps are useless - and likewise the insulated panels you can get to hang outside the windows. I tightened them down but the slightest wind picks it all up rendering them ineffective.
Wind
The windows roof and sides will flap. Granted, I’m on a pretty windy hilltop, so take that with a grain of salt, but I’ve resorted to screwing in the windows from the outside with a screw and small rubber grommet. This has helped a lot. I’ve run the rope down from the top canvas as instructed, but a very strong wind (35mph+) creates a lift on the canvas and will lift and smack the roof down. It’s noisy and tiresome, but luckily not that common a problem. I keep the window covers rolled up tight - don’t use them so that’s once and done.
Doors
I have a standard door with window in the front and the french doors in the back. Love the french doors, but I got them to open out - not recommended. See wind section above, but I’m either having to keep it from blowing or keep it from slamming shut so I’ve attached various chains and latches, not to mention, if it blows open, it slams into the side of the yurt. I since fixed that with a hinge door-stop. I still have a problem with my french door occasionally blowing open even after some adjustments to the strike plate, they don’t come together close enough. It’s latched, just not sure how to fix that so I’ve latched it from the inside to the fixed door.
[Update March 2009] Doubled up the strike plate instead of just using some washers to shim it out and it latches solidly now. The washers were along the strike plate to move just enough that it would blow open.
